Day 9 - Mykolaiv: A City Under Attack 

We visited Mykolaiv in the south of Ukraine on a day when the air-raid sirens were blaring incessantly. The sound was so familiar that it almost became background noise, until an explosion in the distance reminded us why it was so constant.

We interviewed a man named Igor, whose hotel had been completely demolished by a large rocket. The entire middle of the building was gone, and every single room on every floor was ruined. Igor took us through the hotel and even on the roof to show us what had happened. The view from the roof was stunning, but it was hard to focus on the beauty of the city when we were surrounded by so much destruction.

We then visited an apartment building that had been hit by another rocket. It was at night, and many families were killed in this attack. It was so sad to realize that these people who were doing nothing except living their lives and taking care of their families were killed or hurt for no reason at all.

We had the opportunity to speak to someone who lives across the street from the building. He said that when the rocket hit, he was literally blown back into his house from where he was standing on his porch. He said it was the worst thing he had ever personally experienced. He tried to help along with many other people, but there was only so much that could be done.

Mykolaiv was on the front lines last year, and life is now returning to the city even though it is still under attack. Buildings and streets are under repair, restaurants and hotels are open again, people are on the streets but there continues to be a stress you can feel each day knowing that any minute you can be attacked again.

Facts about the types of rockets the Russians are using to attack Ukrainian cities:

The Russian military is using a variety of rockets to attack Ukrainian cities, including ballistic missiles, cruise missiles, and cluster munitions.

Ballistic missiles are long-range missiles that travel in a high arc. They can be used to target strategic targets, such as military bases and airports.

Cruise missiles are smaller and faster than ballistic missiles. They can fly at low altitudes, making them difficult to detect and intercept. They can be used to target a variety of targets, including civilian infrastructure.

Cluster munitions are bombs that contain smaller submunitions. When the bomb explodes, the submunitions scatter over a wide area, causing widespread damage.

Facts about Mykolaiv:

Mykolaiv is a city in southern Ukraine, located on the Black Sea.

It is the capital of Mykolaiv Oblast.

The city has a population of over 470,000 people.

Mykolaiv is an important industrial city, with industries including shipbuilding, machine building, and food processing.

The city was founded in 1789.

Mykolaiv was on the front lines of the Russian invasion of Ukraine in 2022. The city was heavily damaged by Russian shelling, but it has since been liberated.

Day 8 - A Day near the Frontlines in Chasiv Yar, Ukraine 

Yesterday we were near the front lines in the battle of Bahamut, Ukraine. We are about 15 minutes outside Bahamut in a town that is obliterated named Chasiv Yar. We slept in an apartment that we found locally in Kramatorsk. There are no hotels left in the area and very few markets and other stores. The apartment building looked very old and damaged but once we were inside the apartment it was large and clean. It was sparce but we each had a bed, power, running water, and a basic kitchen.

We left early in the morning to meet our people. We were with a unit that is providing food, water, and other supplies to the people who are still living in the area. Most people we talked to said it was the only place they knew, it was home, or they were too old to leave and wanted to be there. Many of these people have no food, running water, no power.

The units and volunteers are their life line to basic necessities that the people need just to get by. The villages and town are under constant shelling and explosions around us were happening the entire day. Some far off, some very close, each time causing a slight hesitation in a conversation or task. You can really tell how long the people have been in this environment as most of the civilians don't seem not to even notice the shelling and other attacks. They have just become numb to this which made me sad. No one should have to live this way.

Each day they gather at different locations and receive different supplies donated by the Ukrainian government and various charity and volunteer groups. In each location we met wonderful people of all ages volunteering their time and efforts to help these people. The volunteers are from Ukraine and the local areas but also from the US, Canada, France, Germany, Poland, the UK, and many other countries. Most people are not receiving any compensation but feel the need to help and had simply jumped on a plane to come and help.

At one location we visited a completed destroyed music hall. You could tell by the remains of the building how beautiful it must have been. We met a head of a volunteer group there who had moved to Ukraine twenty years ago and actually danced in this hall. She now leads a team that helps provide aid to the local residents.

The hospitality of the unit and all the volunteers was terrific! Everyone was open to being interviewed and photographed. It is very important that we make sure we don't disclose our locations in our photos or videos to ensure everyone's safety. After our return to one of the depots we were offered a box lunch by our hosts. The lunch was provided by World Kitchen. The food was truly excellent. When you are in a combat area a good meal can make such a difference both physically and emotionally. World Kitchen is really doing heroic work across the country.

After finishing our assistance to the local residents our team to us to the location of various rocket and drone attacks and the shrapnel from these are so big and heavy you then understand how much damage they can really do. After completing our interviews and photos we said thank you and goodbye to our team.

We started to drive east south and east to the other areas of battle going through strict checkpoints throughout the journey. During the long drive to our next location we happened onto a funeral procession going through a small village. Flags flying from each car, beautiful flowers covering the street, and a proper military and police escort were part of the procession.

People were our in front of every house and market. Many on their knees crying and waving Ukrainian flags. You could just see the grief in each person as we passed by. Another sad event to finish our evening but I feel so fortunate to be able to witness it and tell you about what is happening here.

Facts about World Food Kitchen and Ukrainian Patriot:

World Food Kitchen is a non-profit organization that provides hot meals to people in need in crisis situations. They have been working in Ukraine since the start of the war, and they have provided over 10 million meals to people in need.

Ukrainian Patriot is a non-profit organization that provides humanitarian aid to the people of Ukraine. They have been working to provide food, water, shelter, and medical care to people affected by the war.

Day 6 - Animals helping people and people helping animals 

Today we went to see firsthand how people are helping animals and animals are helping humans in the wake of the war.

My first stop was a horse training facility that is working with a volunteer organization to help soldiers with PTSD or trauma work with the horses and learn to ride as part of their therapy. The interactions with animals have been proven to help the affected soldiers better deal with their issues. According to the National Center for PTSD, "Animal-assisted therapy (AAT) can be an effective treatment for PTSD because it provides comfort, support, and companionship, and it can help to reduce stress and anxiety."

The horses at the training facility are specifically trained to be patient and gentle, and they are able to provide a sense of calm and security to the soldiers. The soldiers also learn to care for the horses, which gives them a sense of purpose and responsibility.

I spoke to one soldier who told me that he had been struggling with PTSD since he returned from the front lines. He said that he had been having nightmares and flashbacks and couldn't tell the difference between the enemy and his unit when under stress which made him dangerous to his team, and he was feeling isolated and alone. However, after working with the horses, he said that he was feeling much better. He said that the horses helped him to relax and to feel more connected to the world around him.

I was also able to visit an animal rescue in Kharkiv. The Kharkiv Animal Rescue has built new facilities to accommodate the unbelievable amount of animals under their care. They also have 20 volunteer staff and a clinic with two veterinarians who have come to Ukraine to help. They have partnered with a number of animal advocacy groups and charities.

The rescue started in 2021 and they rescued 1000 animals that year. Between the start of the war and now they have rescued over 11,000 animals. This includes hundreds of dogs and cats but also fish, horses, and exotic animals that have been found.

I was amazed by the work that the animal rescue is doing. They are providing a safe haven for animals who have been abandoned or lost during the war. They are also providing medical care and rehabilitation to the animals.

I was particularly moved by the cat facility. Everywhere you looked there were cats on the couches, on the toys, on the climbing trees, and on every shelf! The facility was exceptionally clean and the cats looked very well taken care of. There was food and water in abundance. Even the cats who needed medical care looked relaxed and comfortable.

The work that the animal rescue is doing is essential. It is providing comfort and care to animals who have been through so much. It is also providing a sense of hope to the people of Kharkiv.

Here are some additional facts about PTSD and using animals to help in the patients treatment:

PTSD is a mental health condition that can develop after a person experiences a traumatic event. Symptoms of PTSD can include flashbacks, nightmares, anxiety, and depression.

Animal-assisted therapy (AAT) is a type of therapy that uses animals to help people with a variety of mental and physical health conditions. AAT has been shown to be effective in treating PTSD in both children and adults.

Some of the ways that animals can help people with PTSD include providing comfort, support, and companionship; reducing stress and anxiety; and helping people to feel more connected to the world around them.

Here are some related facts about the abandoned animals since the start of the war:

According to the United Nations, over 10 million animals have been displaced by the war in Ukraine.

Many of these animals have been abandoned by their owners, who have been forced to flee their homes.

The abandoned animals are at risk of starvation, disease, and injury.

These groups and many other volunteer groups need our continued support to allow them to continue their much needed work.

Day 4 - A trip to Izyum

We met with a fire/rescue team who had been working in Izsum throughout the occupation. They told us stories of the death and destruction they had witnessed, but they also spoke of the resilience of the people of Izsum. They said that the people were determined to rebuild their town and move forward with their lives. Allan took the opportunity to photograph the team and make portraits of the members while I did an interview with one of the team and their captain.

After our meeting with the fire/rescue team, we visited a building that had been bombed and many people had been killed at the start of the war. It was a sobering experience, but it was also important to see the reality of what had happened in Izsum.

Our final stop was a mass graveyard where over 400 people had been buried. The Russians had simply numbered the bodies, and only half of them had been identified. It was one of the most awful things I have ever seen, but it was also a reminder of the importance of remembering the victims of war and not allowing things to like this to ever happen in the future.

I am grateful for the opportunity to have visited Izsum and met the people who are rebuilding their lives after the war. The people were so happy to have an opportunity to share their stories and also expressed their gratefulness to all the help from both inside the country and the rest of the world. They are an inspiration to us all.

Here are some facts about Izyum, Ukraine:

It is a city on the Donets River in Kharkiv Oblast, eastern Ukraine.

It serves as the administrative center of Izium Raion.

It had a population of 46,653 in 2020.

It is located about 120 kilometers southeast of Kharkiv.

It is an important transportation hub, with a railway station and an airport.

It is a major industrial center, with industries including railroad repair, brick making, brewing, and optical equipment manufacture.

It was founded in 1639.

David Graham

Izyum, Ukraine

August 31, 2023 

Day 3 - On our way to Kharkiv and Seeing the Devastation Up Close

I arrived in Kharkiv yesterday, a city that has been through so much in the past year. The city was heavily shelled by Russian forces in the early days of the war, and many buildings were destroyed. But even in the midst of all this destruction, People were starting to rebuild their homes and businesses but the damage is everywhere.

My first stop was a huge complex of apartment buildings that had been damaged or destroyed. Most people had moved away, but many of the older people who had nowhere to go had been living there with no power, no water, and no windows for over a year. They had been doing what repairs they could and trying to get by as best they could.

It was heartbreaking to see these people living in such difficult conditions. But they were incredibly strong and resilient. They told me stories of how they had survived the shelling. Allan created some fantastic photos of the area and the people we talked with. He is a great photographer and really cares about each person we meet. I had an opportunity to interview more people and many of them still had their pets to show us which was a bright spot in a rough day.

I left Kharkiv with a heavy heart, but I was also inspired by the resilience of the people I met. Everyone is so nice and open to us and willing to share their stories. I am amazed on how they deal with all the difficulties in their lives. We are so lucky to live in the US.

Here are some facts about Kharkiv:

It is the second largest city in Ukraine, with a population of over 1.4 million people.

It is located in the northeastern part of the country, near the Russian border.

It is a major industrial and cultural center.

It was heavily shelled by Russian forces in the early days of the war, but it has since been liberated.

David Graham
Kharkiv, Ukraine
August 30, 2023

My Second Day in Kyiv: Where Memory Builds the Future

On the second morning in Kyiv, the atmosphere was thick with warmth, both physical and emotional, as if the city were in a tense embrace with its own duality. Allan and I met with a group of colleagues and one of them will accompany us on the journey to the eastern conflict zones, the day unfolded with an intimate exploration of the city's core.

The City Center: Where History Meets the Present

The epicenter of Kyiv serves as a powerful nexus between the city's storied past and its conflicted present. Yet nothing conveys the human toll of the ongoing struggle quite like the Wall of Heroes. This solemn memorial displays photographs of soldiers—many heartbreakingly young—whose futures were abruptly halted by the invasion.

The Wall of Heroes: Frozen Timelines, Lost Futures

These images act as haunting reminders that the people depicted had dreams and ambitions that had nothing to do with the war that consumed them. These young faces signify halted timelines, aspirations that will remain forever unfulfilled due to the ongoing invasion by Russia.

A Solemn Gathering: Sunflowers and Silent Tributes

During the visit, a remembrance ceremony was underway near another war memorial. Among the attendees was a young woman who had lost her father to the conflict. She placed sunflowers at the memorial, their bright faces a poignant contrast to the grief evident in her own. Sunflowers, often seen as symbols of Ukraine, serve here as emblems of both life and loss.

A Living Memorial: Kyiv's Quiet Transformation

Kyiv seems to function as a living memorial. The air was laden with an intricate blend of sorrow, defiance, and a hushed form of determination—a resilience that’s felt but difficult to put into words.

The Journey Ahead: Confronting the Uneasy Reality

As evening approached and the preparation for the journey east gained momentum I felt a heavy sense of responsibility . The stark contrast between Kyiv's relative stability and the looming dangers of the conflict zones amplified the gravity of the assignment to come.

Kyiv's Resolute Pulse: Life in the Shadow of War

In this city, resilience manifests as a heartbeat that refuses to be quieted. Amid loss and daily tension, Kyiv pulses with an enduring vitality. Here, people are not just enduring; they are demanding to live, to shape a future that respects those who are no longer present to see it.

As we prepare to embark on our eastern journey my thoughts on my youngest son Patrick, his  birthday is today, and how so many people his age will not have the opportunity to see another birthday or whose life will never be the same. I am very glad to have had a chance to stop in the city and see how things have changed since my last visit. I am thankful for the rest and the fantastic food that the city offers, and I am now ready to start our real purpose of our trip.

David Graham
Kyiv, Ukraine
August 29, 2023